Linen is one of the oldest fabrics in the world and is made from the flax plant. For our linen fabrics, we collaborate with artisanal flax weaving mills in Europe. But before flax turns into soft linen fabric, it must undergo several steps. This year, we are participating in the 1m² flax project. In our By Mölle atelier in Dalfsen, we grow flax on a small piece of land. It's a few square meters in several containers. We follow the entire process, from seed to linen textile. From sowing in April to processing in December, we will take you step by step through this special craft. In this first article, we explain how it works.what is flax?
Flax is an annual plant that has been cultivated for thousands of years for both its seeds and fibers. It is one of the oldest crops in the world and has been grown in Europe for centuries. The stem of the flax plant produces strong fibers, which are used to make linen fabric. The seeds of the plant, known as flaxseed, are healthy and delicious in crackers and muesli. Additionally, flaxseed is used to make linseed oil, an essential ingredient in, among other things, oil paints, floor soap, and industrial applications such as paper and bioplastics.

growing flax
Flax primarily grows in Belgium, northern France, and the Netherlands. More than 85% of all flax in the world comes from this region. The best flax grows between the French city of Caen and Amsterdam. Thanks to the fertile soil and the mild maritime climate with enough sun and rain, the flax here has the time to become strong and resilient. Linen made from European flax is known to be the best quality in the world.

Flax is sown in early spring. After about 100 days, the plant is fully grown and can be harvested at the end of July or early August. The flax plant grows to about one meter high. In June, it blooms with beautiful blue-purple flowers, but they only bloom for one day. Once the small seed pods appear on the plant, it's time to harvest. This is still done in the traditional way: the entire plant is pulled out of the ground, roots and all. This ensures that the fibers, which extend all the way to the roots, remain as long as possible. This process is called retting. Afterward, the seed pods are removed from the plant, which is called rippling.from flax to fiber
After the harvest, the flax is laid out in the field to rett, a natural fermentation process in which the fibers separate from the woody parts of the plant. This is aided by microorganisms that break down certain substances in the plant. The soil also plays a role and gives the flax its characteristic gray-brown color. This process takes about a month, depending on the weather. Once the retting process is complete, the flax is gathered, pressed into large bales, and stored in a dry space.

processing the fiber
On dry, sunny autumn days, the flax is further processed. First, the seeds are knocked off the stems. Then comes breaking: the stems are broken so that the woody particles come loose from the fibers. Next, scutching removes the last wood particles. The final step is heckling: the fibers are combed with thousands of fine pins until only the pure fiber remains, which resembles hair. The special thing is that the same steps are needed in the mechanical process as in the manual method.from flax to thread
The long, combed flax fibers are rolled into a so-called flax poppy. The thinner the thread, the finer and higher quality the linen will be. Not all fibers are the same length. The shorter fibers left after heckling are called tow. These are used to make coarser yarns. The very shortest fibers are not wasted: they are ideal for making rope or grain sacks. Short fibers (also called tow) are used for making rope and coarse yarns. The long, fine fibers (also called line) produce the best quality linen.

spinning: from fiber to thread
In spinning, the flax fibers are stretched and twisted together into a strong thread. This can be done in two ways:
1. Wet spinning. The fine, long fibers are processed while moist, making the thread smooth and shiny.
2. Dry spinning. The shorter fibers are spun without moisture, resulting in a rougher, fluffier thread that is suitable for rope or strong yarn.

weaving
Before the linen is woven, the threads are checked for strength and uniformity. This is important because modern weaving machines operate at high speeds and can only handle strong threads. After weaving, each meter of fabric is carefully inspected and tested for quality. This results in the beautiful, durable fabric we know as linen.1m2 flax planning 2025
March: prepare 1m2 containers
April: sowing
May-June: weeding
August - September: processing flax
October - november: spinning
December: weaving

1m2
1m2 is a project by Crafts Council Nederland and The Linen Project in collaboration with the National Association of Swedish Handicraft Societies. More and more countries are participating, working together to raise awareness of local textiles. Check out the Instagram account @_1m2vlas to get a glimpse of all the experiences. You can follow the entire process at home. Will you join us? Registration for 1m² flax is open until March 16, 2025.

By Mölle atelier
Discover the By Mölle collection of pure linen. All our cushions, bed, and table linens are handmade with care in our atelier in Dalfsen. We also specialize in custom linen curtains. If you have any questions, feel free to contact us, and we will be happy to assist you.